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Nose to Tail Eating Nose to Tail Eating, ISBN 9780747572572 and books by Fergus Henderson on sale at thebookshelf.co.nz The child of Elizabeth David and George Orwell. – A.A. Gill Fergus Henderson caused something of a sensation when he opened his restaurant St John in London in 1995. Set in a former smokehouse near Smithfield meat market, its striking, high–ceilinged white interior provides a dramatic setting for food of dazzling boldness and simplicity. As signalled by the restaurants logo of a pig (reproduced on the cover of Nose to Tail Eating) and appropriately given the location, at St John the emphasis is firmly on meat. And not the noisettes, fillets, magrets and so forth of standard restaurant portion–control, all piled up into little towers in the middle of the plate: Henderson serves up the inner organs of beasts and fowls in big, exhilarating dishes that combine high sophistication with peasant roughness. Nose to Tail Eating is a collection of these recipes, celebrating, as the title implies, the thrifty rural British traditions of making delicious virtue out of using every part of the animal. Hendersons wonderful signature dish, Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad, is among the starters, along with Grilled, Marinated Calfs Heart and the gruesome–sounding but apparently delicious Rolled Pigs Spleen. He is a great advocate of salting and brining and tends to use saturated animals fats (duck, goose, lard) in quantities that would make a dietician blench. But when the results are dishes of the calibre of Brined Pork Belly, Roasted, Lambs Tongues, Turnips, Bacon and Salted Ducks Legs, Green Beans, and Cornmeal Dumplings, who cares? Fish at St John avoids the usual fare – no monkfish or red mullet here; instead herring roes, salt cod, eel, brill and skate. Vegetables are mashed (swede, celeriac) or roasted (pumpkin, tomatoes) and he dares to serve boiled brussels sprouts. The puddings (not desserts) are a starry dream of school dinners: Treacle Tart, St Johns Eccles Cakes and a very nearly perfect Chocolate Ice Cream. Not perhaps for the faint of heart, but for the adventurous an exciting feast of new and rediscovered flavours and textures. About the AuthorFergus Henderson trained as an architect before becoming a chef. He opened the French House Dining Room in 1992 and left it to start St John in 1994. He is the author of the cult classic Nose to Tail Eating, which won the Andre Simon Award in 2000.
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